Time flies when you’re having fun, or so they say. Almost exactly three months after I got on a plane to Perth, I boarded a plane going to Jakarta. Ready to start a new chapter of my adventure – one that sees me settled for at least two months in the same place. The last three months have been (at the risk of sounding melodramatic) life-changing. Despite not travelling alone as planned, I learned more about myself than I could’ve hoped. And I’ve learned more about and from the inspiring and beautiful people I met along the way than I ever could’ve imagined. It’s amazing how travelling opens you up – to the world, to yourself, and to others. I feel more confident, and – more importantly – happy with myself than I ever have before. This is the way to live.
Last time I left you, we were getting ready to go to Singapore. As per usual, our airport time was stressful as we (thank you, nice lady in Bali) had not booked on luggage. A large sum of money down the road, we got rid of our bags and spent a long time playing Yaniv. A Dutch couple we met in the hostel joined us and taught as a new game before we boarded the plane to the cleanest city on Earth.
Our first day in Singapore I woke up to a German-sounding lady screaming at me. “Do you know ze time?! I am trying zo sleep!” (forgive my poor phonetic German). A large, older lady, she was hovering over me as I sat on my bed, clearly offended by my being awake at 10am. I (as kindly as possible) suggested she bought some earplugs and Marije and I left for the city. Singapore is indeed insanely clean. Not a speck of dirt can be found anywhere – not on the streets, not on the underground, not on the people. Everything and everyone is impeccable. Slightly intimidated, we headed for Singapore’s most well-known attraction: Gardens by the Bay and the Marina Sands.
We got off at the Marina Sands and marveled at the building in front of us. Three towers with a horizontal slab across the top, it looks like something from the future. As we strolled inside, we gazed up at the sheer size of the hotel and realized that Singapore has a clear motto: Go big or go home. As we walked across the bridge leaving the hotel, we were greeted with a gorgeous view of Gardens by the Bay. The gardens are probably one of the most redundant places on the planet in the sense that it serves literally no purpose other than showing that we can. But it is magnificent. The gardens consist out of three main areas – the gardens themselves which are home to the supertrees, the Flower Dome, and the Cloud Forest. Each is a beautifully designed piece of perfection in this overly perfect city. The supertrees provide water and energy to the domes by a system so complex I can’t even begin to explain it – the numerous diagrams that are on display explaining the process look very impressive nonetheless. The Flower Dome is home to plants and flowers from all over the world, but was perhaps not as impressive as I expected. The Cloud Forest, on the other hand, is incredible. A fog spreads through the dome on an hourly basis and as you travel up and down the “mountain”, the habitat changes accordingly. It summarizes Singapore: an achievement to be proud of.
As we strolled back we passed an exhibition by Brian Skerry on underwater photography, which kept us occupied until it was time to hit the Botanic Garden. The nice Dutch couple had pointed out there might be free music in the gardens and they were right. The Singapore Symphonic Orchestra were giving a free concert, and even the prime-minister was attending. The park was filled with people waving plastic fans to fight off the heat, and the music was mesmerizing. We enjoyed the sunset and headed back to the hostel. The night ended with a falafel wrap and the company of an English girl and a guy from Manchester.
The next morning myself, Marije, and Ellie (the English girl from the night before) were joined by a Kiwi called Sam. Soon the four of us decided to go to the Botanic Garden to see it in full. The Botanic Gardens are, again, amazing. It seems Singapore can do no wrong. Home to a tropical forest, large playing fields, and an orchid garden, it is a relaxing day activity. It’s easy to forget you’re in a huge city as the gardens are big enough for the noise to be filtered out by the trees. Birds are singing, kids playing, people laughing. We walked around leisurely, before heading back to the hostel with a couple of cold beers ready to be drank on the hostel’s roof garden. After we enjoyed the sunset over the Sultan’s mosque, we walked towards a Mexican restaurant in the neighbourhood. The hostel is located in the Arab district, and on the aptly named Arab street, the city comes to life at night. Shisha bars open their doors, restaurants sell food ranging from Lebanese, to Moroccan, to Iraqi, and the mosque’s golden domes glisten in the distance. It’s an incredibly relaxed atmosphere.
The next day, it was time to go to “work”. Marije and I split ways for the first time in six weeks as Sam and I headed to the Singapore Zoo. At over an hour by public transport, it’s not an easy place to get to. The zoo itself is big, flashy, and tied closely to two other zoos. At a hefty entrance fee (S$36, or approx. €25), it’s also not a cheap day out, especially for the family. But it is, almost certainly, worth it. The zoo has a wide collection of animals, most of which will be known to the general public, but also some more obscure species occupy the vast expanse of land. It emphasises climate change, illegal hunting, and the use of animals for medicinal purposes. It is an open approach, clearly outlining the moral qualms that come with the ever-present trade in this part of the world. Hopefully the message will spread (especially since China recently promised to ban the processing and sale of ivory.. Progress or wishful thinking? Who knows.).
After the zoo, we headed back to our beloved roof terrace and finished the day having dinner with a couple of Sam’s friends. Another Mexican place (and perhaps a bit of rum) saw us through the night and I mentally prepared myself for my impending visa visit. The embassy had been shut the last couple of days (first a Singaporean holiday, then an Indonesian) so I had to find a way to get a rushed visa. As I arrived at 8.45am the next morning, ready for the 9am opening time, there was already a queue spilling out onto the streets. After an hour of filling in forms, pleading, sweating, and eventually paying, I was told to come back a few hours before my flight on Friday.
Later that day, Sam and I headed to Ku De Ta (you may remember this one from Bali), the prestigious bar on top of the Skypark in Marina Sands. We made our way up, inconspicuously didn’t buy a drink, and enjoyed the view for free. It gave a good grasp of the sheer size of Singapore. A quick change at the hostel, and we were on our way to dinner at Bugis Junction. Small vendors sell all food possible – pão de queijo (Brazilian cheese bread), laksa (Singaporean soup), different types of meat on sticks, the choices were endless. We filled up quickly for just a few dollars, and headed to 1Altitude. Its location on top of the highest building in Singapore makes it a popular club for expats and rich Singaporeans alike. Ladies’ night meant Marije and I (thankfully) didn’t have to pay our way, and enjoyed S$10 cocktails for the night. The views, the music, and the company made it a perfect last night out together at the end of our travels. There is no other way it could’ve ended, and when “See you Again” came on, we both realised the end of our trip was definitely close.
But we had one more day, and after picking up my visa (another queue, serious amount of sweating, and another good deal of pleading later), we spent most of the afternoon reading our books at a local Starbucks, watching life bustling around us. It was blissful. Eventually, we made our way to the Night Safari – a zoo dedicated to nocturnal life. The collection consisted of a large amount of species most people would never even have heard of, such as binturongs, crested porcupines, and mouse deer. The more common species, such as the tiger, were suddenly far more active and the zoo gave a new angle to animals often found sleeping in regular zoos. After a long night wandering the trails, looking for lorises and galagos alike, we headed home and fell soundly asleep.
And then the end came. After three months of travelling around, I packed my bags one last time and Marije and I headed to Singapore airport together. A bit of shopping, some dinner, and a final round of Yaniv later, it was time to say goodbye. As I lined up at my gate, Marije and I put off the inevitable until I definitely had to go. But I’m absolutely positive this was not a goodbye – merely a see you later. For now I’ll let her think she’s rid of me, but it won’t be that easy. And so, as I reminisced about the last few months, I got on a plane and started the next chapter.
Two days later, and I’m sat at the kitchen table of the Little Fireface Project house. Arriving after a nine-hour drive from Jakarta, I’m finding my feet in my new home. Here, I’ll be working on education and social media promoting the loris, a species of primate found through Asia and unique for more reasons than I can explain here. As I get settled in, I’ll get you guys up to speed about the amazing work we will be doing. Stay tuned.
Faye Vogely 